Text and Image by University of Nottingham
The oldest submerged town in the world is about to give up its secrets, with the help of equipment that could revolutionize underwater archaeology.
The ancient town of Pavlopetri lies in three to four meters of water just off the coast of southern Laconia in Greece. The ruins date from at least 2800 BC through to intact buildings, courtyards, streets, chamber tombs and some thirty-seven cist graves which are thought to belong to the Mycenaean period (c.1680-1180 BC). This Bronze Age phase of Greece provides the historical setting for much Ancient Greek literature and myth, including Homer's Age of Heroes.
Underwater archaeologist Dr Jon Henderson, from The University of Nottingham, will be the first archaeologist to have official access to the site in 40 years. Despite its potential international importance no work has been carried out at the site since it was first mapped in 1968 and Dr Henderson has had to get special permission from the Greek government to examine the submerged town.
Although Mycenaean power was largely based on their control of the sea, little is known about the workings of the harbor towns of the period as archaeology to date has focused on the better known inland palaces and citadels. Pavlopetri was presumably once a thriving harbor town where the inhabitants conducted local and long distance trade throughout the Mediterranean -- its sandy and well-protected bay would have been ideal for beaching Bronze Age ships. As such the site offers major new insights into the workings of Mycenaean society.
The aim of Dr Henderson's project is to discover the history and development of Pavlopetri, find out when it was occupied, what it was used for and through a systematic study of the geomorphology of the area establish why the town disappeared under the sea.
Dr Henderson, from the Underwater Archaeology Research Centre (UARC) in the Department of Archaeology, said: "This site is of rare international archaeological importance. It is imperative that the fragile remains of this town are accurately recorded and preserved before they are lost forever. A fundamental aim of the project is to raise awareness of the importance of the site and ensure that it is ethically managed and presented to the public in a way which is sustainable and of benefit to both the development of tourism and the local community."
The submerged buildings, courtyards, streets, tombs and graves, lie just off a sandy stretch of beach close to an area popular with holiday makers and campers. Under threat from tourism and industry the remains are being damaged by boats dragging their anchors, inquisitive snorkelers on the hunt for souvenirs and the growth of marine organisms which are also taking their toll degrading the fragile 3,500 year old walls.
The survey, in collaboration with Mr Elias Spondylis of the Ephorate of Underwater Antiquities of the Hellenic Ministry of Culture, will be carried out using equipment originally developed for the military and offshore oilfield market but looks set to transform underwater archaeological survey and recording.
Dr Henderson and his team will carry out a detailed millimeter accurate digital underwater survey of the site using an acoustic scanner developed by a major North American offshore engineering company. The equipment can produce photo-realistic, three dimensional digital surveys of seabed features and underwater structures to sub-millimetre accuracy in a matter of minutes.
Dr Henderson said: "The ability to survey submerged structures, from shipwrecks to sunken cities, quickly, accurately and more importantly, cost effectively, is a major obstacle to the future development of underwater archaeology. I believe we now have a technique which effectively solves this problem."
Joining the team will be Dr Nicholas Flemming who discovered the site in 1967. The following year he led a team from the University of Cambridge who surveyed the area with hand tapes. The archaeological material -- pottery, figurines, obsidian and small finds -- they collected belong to the Early Helladic, Middle Helladic and Late Helladic period (c. 2800-1180 BC). A systematic assessment of the finds recovered at the time is currently being undertaken by Dr Chrysanthi Gallou at The University of Nottingham.
The project has received funding from the Institute of Aegean Prehistory (INSTAP), The University of Nottingham and the British School of Archaeology at Athens but it is still 10,000 short of the amount needed to carry out the main archaeological survey.
Four annual fieldwork seasons are planned. This May and June the team will carry out a full underwater survey. Between 2010 and 2012 there will be three seasons of underwater excavations. After a study season in 2013 the findings of Dr Henderson's research will be published in 2014.
Posts 51-60 of 513
Rum and Nothing Better to do
By: shannond | May 13th, 2009 at 8:23am
Text and Photo by Liz Clark
It was the last weekend of the locals' two-week vacation and there had been lots of action around the marina lately. My empty refrigerator inspired a ride down to the 'Snack' which turned into a spontaneous gathering of many who'd been in the Teahupo'o line-up lately. I rolled back to Swell on my no brakes, rust-bucket close to eleven at night. The moon was full and silhouetting the ridge-line. A few of the younger local kids on their way home helped me lift my bike over the closed marina gate.
Upon my arrival back at Swell, I was welcomed by a drunken duo of local guys, maybe 19 or 20 years-old, sitting at the end of the dock. I greeted them in a friendly tone, but finally withdrew when it was obvious that they were well into the bottle of rum they were passing between each other. I asked them repeatedly if they wouldn't mind just moving to the other end of the dock. I even escorted them halfway, explaining that I was going to sleep and their music was too loud. They stumbled alongside, but seemed to hover back magnetically as I wandered back towards Swell. The night air was stiff and hot, but I shut the door of the companionway from the inside, just to deter any drunken desire they might have to enter Swell.
Not sure what else I could do, I put in my earplugs and crawled into bed. I thought about shutting the hatch above me, but the heat of the night was stifling and I could hardly stand the thought of cutting off my only source of fresh air. Despite that I could still hear their muffled antics, I drifted quickly into dreamland.
I'm not sure how much time had passed when I woke to a shuffle above me and slurred whispers. I opened my eyes to see the black silhouette of the smaller kid's head peering down into my hatch!
"Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" I hollered. I leapt to my feet and crawled out the hatch to see them stumbling off down the dock. One of my 'eight Tahitian dads' had been woken by my cry. Claude leapt from his fishing boat and hurried to head them off at the end of the dock.
The boys had untied my stern line, probably in order to pull the bow in and get a peek into my hatch without climbing aboard. But when that wasn't enough to see in, the smaller of the two had stepped over the lifeline and onto the deck.
Claude grabbed the little one (his nephew, in fact), shaking him thoroughly and then sent them off down the road. He motioned to me that it was okay. I retied Swell's stern line and crawled back into bed. I didn't sleep well the rest of the night and made plans to head back to George's mooring the following day.
It was the last weekend of the locals' two-week vacation and there had been lots of action around the marina lately. My empty refrigerator inspired a ride down to the 'Snack' which turned into a spontaneous gathering of many who'd been in the Teahupo'o line-up lately. I rolled back to Swell on my no brakes, rust-bucket close to eleven at night. The moon was full and silhouetting the ridge-line. A few of the younger local kids on their way home helped me lift my bike over the closed marina gate.
Upon my arrival back at Swell, I was welcomed by a drunken duo of local guys, maybe 19 or 20 years-old, sitting at the end of the dock. I greeted them in a friendly tone, but finally withdrew when it was obvious that they were well into the bottle of rum they were passing between each other. I asked them repeatedly if they wouldn't mind just moving to the other end of the dock. I even escorted them halfway, explaining that I was going to sleep and their music was too loud. They stumbled alongside, but seemed to hover back magnetically as I wandered back towards Swell. The night air was stiff and hot, but I shut the door of the companionway from the inside, just to deter any drunken desire they might have to enter Swell.
Not sure what else I could do, I put in my earplugs and crawled into bed. I thought about shutting the hatch above me, but the heat of the night was stifling and I could hardly stand the thought of cutting off my only source of fresh air. Despite that I could still hear their muffled antics, I drifted quickly into dreamland.
I'm not sure how much time had passed when I woke to a shuffle above me and slurred whispers. I opened my eyes to see the black silhouette of the smaller kid's head peering down into my hatch!
"Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" I hollered. I leapt to my feet and crawled out the hatch to see them stumbling off down the dock. One of my 'eight Tahitian dads' had been woken by my cry. Claude leapt from his fishing boat and hurried to head them off at the end of the dock.
The boys had untied my stern line, probably in order to pull the bow in and get a peek into my hatch without climbing aboard. But when that wasn't enough to see in, the smaller of the two had stepped over the lifeline and onto the deck.
Claude grabbed the little one (his nephew, in fact), shaking him thoroughly and then sent them off down the road. He motioned to me that it was okay. I retied Swell's stern line and crawled back into bed. I didn't sleep well the rest of the night and made plans to head back to George's mooring the following day.
Liz Clark sails solo around the world on her 40-foot sailboat, Swell, in search of people, places and waves. She sends us travel updates, stories and photos several times a week.
More travel logs
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Tagged: None
A Touchy-Feely Underwater Robot
By: shannond | May 11th, 2009 at 6:43pm
Text and Graphic by Fraunhofer Institute
The robot dives into the sea, swims to the submerged cable and carries out the necessary repairs, but the person controlling the robot does not have an easy task. It is pitch dark and the robot's lamp does not help much. What's more, the current keeps pulling the robot away from where it needs to carry out the work.
In future, the robot could find its own way. A sensor will endow it with a sense of touch and help it to detect its undersea environment autonomously.
"One component in this tactile capability is a strain gauge," says Marcus Maiwald, project manager at the Fraunhofer Institute for Manufacturing Technology and Applied Materials Research IFAM in Bremen. Together with his Fraunhofer colleagues and staff at the German Research Center for Artificial Intelligence DFKI, Bremen Laboratory, he has developed the model of an underwater robot with a sense of touch.
"If the robot encounters an obstacle," he explains, "the strain gauge is distorted and the electrical resistance changes. The special feature of our strain gauge is that it is not glued but printed on - which means we can apply the sensor to curved surfaces of the robot."
The single printed strip is just a few ten micrometers wide, i.e. about half the width of a human hair. As a result, the strain gauges can be applied close to each other and the robot can identify precisely where it is touching an obstacle. The sensor is protected from the salt water by encapsulation.
To produce the strain gauges, the research scientists atomize a solution with nanoparticles to create an aerosol. A software system guides the aerosol stream to the right position. Focusing gas shrouds the beam and ensures that it does not fan out.
At the Sensor and Test trade show from May 26 to 28 in Nuremberg, the research scientists are presenting an octopus-shaped underwater robot which is fitted with a printed sensor.
The robot dives into the sea, swims to the submerged cable and carries out the necessary repairs, but the person controlling the robot does not have an easy task. It is pitch dark and the robot's lamp does not help much. What's more, the current keeps pulling the robot away from where it needs to carry out the work.
In future, the robot could find its own way. A sensor will endow it with a sense of touch and help it to detect its undersea environment autonomously.
"One component in this tactile capability is a strain gauge," says Marcus Maiwald, project manager at the Fraunhofer Institute for Manufacturing Technology and Applied Materials Research IFAM in Bremen. Together with his Fraunhofer colleagues and staff at the German Research Center for Artificial Intelligence DFKI, Bremen Laboratory, he has developed the model of an underwater robot with a sense of touch.
"If the robot encounters an obstacle," he explains, "the strain gauge is distorted and the electrical resistance changes. The special feature of our strain gauge is that it is not glued but printed on - which means we can apply the sensor to curved surfaces of the robot."
The single printed strip is just a few ten micrometers wide, i.e. about half the width of a human hair. As a result, the strain gauges can be applied close to each other and the robot can identify precisely where it is touching an obstacle. The sensor is protected from the salt water by encapsulation.
To produce the strain gauges, the research scientists atomize a solution with nanoparticles to create an aerosol. A software system guides the aerosol stream to the right position. Focusing gas shrouds the beam and ensures that it does not fan out.
At the Sensor and Test trade show from May 26 to 28 in Nuremberg, the research scientists are presenting an octopus-shaped underwater robot which is fitted with a printed sensor.
Tagged: None
Heal Swell
By: shannond | May 10th, 2009 at 7:56pmSwell has another leak, a delamination due to a flaw in the original molding of the Cal 40 design. The boat will have to be pulled out of the water again, and the engine will have to be removed to access the damaged area at the back of the keel.
This is a BIG job, that I cannot do alone. It's difficult to tell how big the project will be until the hull is opened up, but I estimate needing to raise about $5,000. After spending all my savings during the last haul out, I need help.
Checks can be mailed to: THE VOYAGE OF SWELL, 1021 Scott St. #205, San Diego CA 92106. Or you can make a donation using PayPal to my account under liz@swellvoyage.com.
Thank you so much for your help!!
Tagged: None
Raimana's Push (Push 2)
By: shannond | May 10th, 2009 at 7:46pm
Text and Image by Liz Clark
Michelle Burrez caught the first one. His little brother was on the second. The third rolled in and Raimana called the boys off.
"Heeeeeeeeeeep! This is yours, Liz. Paddle, GO, PADDLE HARD! TOWARDS THE REEF!" He yelled. I did everything he said, totally committed. Got under it. Made the drop. No tube but a big roar...and in another instant I went launching out the now familiar exit ramp.
"Good." He said as I paddled back, unable to contain my smile. "Now come here again. Sit here. I gonna push you this time. A bigger one."
I followed his instructions.
"Let's move out. Okay, a little more. Little more...more. THERE."
We were sitting way west and way outside. I couldn't imagine how we were going to catch a wave there, but I certainly wasn't going to argue with this Tahitian "Water King." I felt a bit more nervous now.
"Breath. Don't worry, you'll get in early." He cooed.
I felt selfish, like he should get a wave before me, but I'd seen how patient he was. He'd wait for nearly an hour sometimes and give all the other waves away, and then stroke casually into the best wave of the day, get frighteningly barreled, and then paddle back to his boat. It seemed like he truly enjoyed sharing and teaching, and I appreciated every moment of his advice and direction and encouragement. I knew this was a RARE moment, with his guidance and the small crowd. I had to embrace this chance -
And then it came. A big west set wave. The mere sight of it almost took my breath away.
"Okay, now, NOW, this one! HEY BOYS, HEY, IT's LIZ! Okay, girl, turn your board, turn your board, paddle past me to the inside. THE INSIDE! NOW GO GO GO!!"
I DEFINITELY hadn't caught one this big yet - and I was DEFINITELY afraid - and I DEFINITELY needed to make this drop or there would be harsh consequences - I put my trust in Raimana, put my head down, and paddled like hell.
He followed closely behind, until the mass of water surged up below us. I felt his hand press against the flat of my foot and with a strong shove, he launched me over the lip of the beast--I could NEVER have caught that wave on my 6'4" without his push. I was on my feet before the drop was too critical, with a locomotive of water behind me. When the wave sucked vertical, I held my rail and 'bonsai'-ed down the face, the lip grinding down behind me. It crashed in a thunder and rocketed me across its deep blue face. I made the safety zone, drifting for a few moments in total shock and then again came my un-containable smile. I couldn't believe it. I was alive and that was incredible!!!!! I paddled back up to thank him. He could see the gleam in my eye. I couldn't explain my gratitude, but I think he felt it.
Raimana, thank you from the bottom of my surf-loving heart. I'll NEVER forget that wave!
*He continued to push me into sets until the crowd came back out...I went back to Swell glowing brighter than a Christmas tree!
Michelle Burrez caught the first one. His little brother was on the second. The third rolled in and Raimana called the boys off.
"Heeeeeeeeeeep! This is yours, Liz. Paddle, GO, PADDLE HARD! TOWARDS THE REEF!" He yelled. I did everything he said, totally committed. Got under it. Made the drop. No tube but a big roar...and in another instant I went launching out the now familiar exit ramp.
"Good." He said as I paddled back, unable to contain my smile. "Now come here again. Sit here. I gonna push you this time. A bigger one."
I followed his instructions.
"Let's move out. Okay, a little more. Little more...more. THERE."
We were sitting way west and way outside. I couldn't imagine how we were going to catch a wave there, but I certainly wasn't going to argue with this Tahitian "Water King." I felt a bit more nervous now.
"Breath. Don't worry, you'll get in early." He cooed.
I felt selfish, like he should get a wave before me, but I'd seen how patient he was. He'd wait for nearly an hour sometimes and give all the other waves away, and then stroke casually into the best wave of the day, get frighteningly barreled, and then paddle back to his boat. It seemed like he truly enjoyed sharing and teaching, and I appreciated every moment of his advice and direction and encouragement. I knew this was a RARE moment, with his guidance and the small crowd. I had to embrace this chance -
And then it came. A big west set wave. The mere sight of it almost took my breath away.
"Okay, now, NOW, this one! HEY BOYS, HEY, IT's LIZ! Okay, girl, turn your board, turn your board, paddle past me to the inside. THE INSIDE! NOW GO GO GO!!"
I DEFINITELY hadn't caught one this big yet - and I was DEFINITELY afraid - and I DEFINITELY needed to make this drop or there would be harsh consequences - I put my trust in Raimana, put my head down, and paddled like hell.
He followed closely behind, until the mass of water surged up below us. I felt his hand press against the flat of my foot and with a strong shove, he launched me over the lip of the beast--I could NEVER have caught that wave on my 6'4" without his push. I was on my feet before the drop was too critical, with a locomotive of water behind me. When the wave sucked vertical, I held my rail and 'bonsai'-ed down the face, the lip grinding down behind me. It crashed in a thunder and rocketed me across its deep blue face. I made the safety zone, drifting for a few moments in total shock and then again came my un-containable smile. I couldn't believe it. I was alive and that was incredible!!!!! I paddled back up to thank him. He could see the gleam in my eye. I couldn't explain my gratitude, but I think he felt it.
Raimana, thank you from the bottom of my surf-loving heart. I'll NEVER forget that wave!
*He continued to push me into sets until the crowd came back out...I went back to Swell glowing brighter than a Christmas tree!
Liz Clark sails solo around the world on her 40-foot sailboat, Swell, in search of people, places and waves. She sends us travel updates, stories and photos several times a week.
More travel logs
More photos of the trip
Tagged: None
Raimana's Push
By: shannond | May 8th, 2009 at 7:51am
Text and Photo by Liz Clark
Another morning in the Teahupo'o marina. There is grass growing out from the cracks in the rotting wooden planks. Some are missing completely; the water pipe below the dock nearest Swell is cracked and constantly spewing freshwater into the sea. But the sky water spews constantly, too, so maybe that's why no one around here seems to think the cracked pipe is much of a problem. A cup of tea, a scan of the reef, and a bit of yoga. It's bigger again today and I can see Raimana's boat tied to the buoy in the channel, trailed by a flotilla of other smaller boats all in a line like baby ducks.
I load up and head over. There's a funky morning bump and the thickest crowd I've seen yet, but Josh motions wildly for me to paddle out, so I tie my 'duck' in the back of the line and go sit amongst the chaos. After a half hour, I finally scrap to catch one small wave then paddle back to my 'duck' and doze off under my pareo.
"It's not the time," I tell myself. "With sets like today, I know I don't want to be battling for the inside waves."
Waking from my nap, I find that the crowd has thinned and it's actually beginning to glass-off. The sets look bigger, but Raimana is here. Just his presence makes me feel safer.
As I paddle back out, a flock of guys paddle away at once. The sun breaks through the clouds and there are only five locals out, including Raimana. I stroke into a wide one on my own, then sit in the channel for a while just to watch this natural wonder of a wave - the power and beauty and colors, just look at that wave! Raimana's voice interrupts my awe.
"Liz, come here. Sit here, beside me. No, THIS side of me," he directs, pointing me to the inside of him. "You ready? Relax, take deep breaths, it's okay."
But I already felt surprisingly calm. He sensed it. This was the biggest I'd surfed it yet, but I'd made some of these drops now and he'd already taught me how to catch the west ones - and okay - here we go. Here comes a set!
Another morning in the Teahupo'o marina. There is grass growing out from the cracks in the rotting wooden planks. Some are missing completely; the water pipe below the dock nearest Swell is cracked and constantly spewing freshwater into the sea. But the sky water spews constantly, too, so maybe that's why no one around here seems to think the cracked pipe is much of a problem. A cup of tea, a scan of the reef, and a bit of yoga. It's bigger again today and I can see Raimana's boat tied to the buoy in the channel, trailed by a flotilla of other smaller boats all in a line like baby ducks.
I load up and head over. There's a funky morning bump and the thickest crowd I've seen yet, but Josh motions wildly for me to paddle out, so I tie my 'duck' in the back of the line and go sit amongst the chaos. After a half hour, I finally scrap to catch one small wave then paddle back to my 'duck' and doze off under my pareo.
"It's not the time," I tell myself. "With sets like today, I know I don't want to be battling for the inside waves."
Waking from my nap, I find that the crowd has thinned and it's actually beginning to glass-off. The sets look bigger, but Raimana is here. Just his presence makes me feel safer.
As I paddle back out, a flock of guys paddle away at once. The sun breaks through the clouds and there are only five locals out, including Raimana. I stroke into a wide one on my own, then sit in the channel for a while just to watch this natural wonder of a wave - the power and beauty and colors, just look at that wave! Raimana's voice interrupts my awe.
"Liz, come here. Sit here, beside me. No, THIS side of me," he directs, pointing me to the inside of him. "You ready? Relax, take deep breaths, it's okay."
But I already felt surprisingly calm. He sensed it. This was the biggest I'd surfed it yet, but I'd made some of these drops now and he'd already taught me how to catch the west ones - and okay - here we go. Here comes a set!
Liz Clark sails solo around the world on her 40-foot sailboat, Swell, in search of people, places and waves. She sends us travel updates, stories and photos several times a week.
More travel logs
More photos of the trip
Tagged: None
Big-Wave Heros Save the Sea Nymphs
By: shannond | May 6th, 2009 at 10:30am
Text and Photo by Liz Clark
Just then, Greg Long and Twiggy "Grant Baker," two of surfing's big-wave heros, paddled out for the sunset session. Twiggy, the cheerfully fearless South African, quickly caught a wave. Andy and his 'sea nymphs' still frolicked in the impact zone. I felt a pang of anxiousness.
"You should take those girls in," another guy called to Andy. "They're getting tired and if a set comes they could drown."
His words seemed to materialize as he spoke them. All of a sudden the horizon leapt. A massive black face rose demonically in front of us. It was twice the size of any set that had come through all afternoon. It grew mountainous, shifted and then pitched a neck-breaking lip across the line-up, catching nearly all of us inside. I scraped for the horizon, knowing I wouldn't make it. I looked back to see where the girls were just before I ditched my board and dove as deep as I could. They were in the worst place possible. I swam down into the darkness. I was far enough out that I didn't take a terrible beating on the first, and surfaced in time for a breath before the next wave rolled over me. As I forced my body to relax through the series of underwater acrobatics, all I could think about was the girls. The board yanked on my ankle but then suddenly went limp. My leash had broken. The foamy water surged and spat and it was tough to get traction in the foam as I came up, board-less. Everyone was in a panic. Miraculously, my board popped up not too far away. I swam frantically for it and someone gave it a shove my way before the next wave grabbed us again. I held on...
Panic rose from the frothy mess of boards and surfers. A piece of a broken board floated by. Everyone looked for the girls. Twiggy, having had caught a wave just before the set, popped up on the inside after a long hold down. As he reached for his board, the head of one of the girls popped above the foam for just a moment before she was sucked back down. He tossed his board aside and dove, feeling for her limp body in the swirling aftermath of the set. He found her and hauled her back to the surface. He called to Greg in a tone that denoted the gravity of the situation. It was clear that these two had been in this kind of situation before. Twiggy handed the first girl over to the only boat on the shoulder and they quickly strategized to get inside and find the other girl. It seemed like an eternity passed while everyone scanned the surface for the other girl. Andy was all the way in on the reef, walking in panicked circles. I was sure she had drowned. I felt sick and speechless.
Then suddenly someone called from the other side of the line-up.
"She's here!" he cried. "She's okay!"
She'd somehow been dragged way up the reef and was being helped back over by another surfer. A few minutes later we were all back in my dinghy. Andy tried to play it off like it was no big deal. Twiggy and Greg paddled back out. Neither sought appreciation for their efforts. Like superheros, they just turned back into their humble selves after the emergency had been diffused. I shuttled Andy and his half drowned harlots back to the point in a cloak of grave silence. We all get away with a few bad choices at that age - I certainly did. But I decided that from then on, Andy could find another water taxi.
A few mornings later, I had the pleasure of sharing a full two hours of dawn in solid, glassy, Teahupo'o with Greg and Twiggy and Josh with his water housing (and swim goggles). Aside from the spectacular sunrise, the unforgettably perfect waves, and the most radical rainbow I'd ever witnessed - I pushed myself a bit harder that session, knowing that in the event of a mishap, I was graced by the presence of a big-wave superhero rescue team. Thanks for the encouragement, guys, hope you cleaned up at the XXL awards! Blessed be the unsung heroes of this world.
Just then, Greg Long and Twiggy "Grant Baker," two of surfing's big-wave heros, paddled out for the sunset session. Twiggy, the cheerfully fearless South African, quickly caught a wave. Andy and his 'sea nymphs' still frolicked in the impact zone. I felt a pang of anxiousness.
"You should take those girls in," another guy called to Andy. "They're getting tired and if a set comes they could drown."
His words seemed to materialize as he spoke them. All of a sudden the horizon leapt. A massive black face rose demonically in front of us. It was twice the size of any set that had come through all afternoon. It grew mountainous, shifted and then pitched a neck-breaking lip across the line-up, catching nearly all of us inside. I scraped for the horizon, knowing I wouldn't make it. I looked back to see where the girls were just before I ditched my board and dove as deep as I could. They were in the worst place possible. I swam down into the darkness. I was far enough out that I didn't take a terrible beating on the first, and surfaced in time for a breath before the next wave rolled over me. As I forced my body to relax through the series of underwater acrobatics, all I could think about was the girls. The board yanked on my ankle but then suddenly went limp. My leash had broken. The foamy water surged and spat and it was tough to get traction in the foam as I came up, board-less. Everyone was in a panic. Miraculously, my board popped up not too far away. I swam frantically for it and someone gave it a shove my way before the next wave grabbed us again. I held on...
Panic rose from the frothy mess of boards and surfers. A piece of a broken board floated by. Everyone looked for the girls. Twiggy, having had caught a wave just before the set, popped up on the inside after a long hold down. As he reached for his board, the head of one of the girls popped above the foam for just a moment before she was sucked back down. He tossed his board aside and dove, feeling for her limp body in the swirling aftermath of the set. He found her and hauled her back to the surface. He called to Greg in a tone that denoted the gravity of the situation. It was clear that these two had been in this kind of situation before. Twiggy handed the first girl over to the only boat on the shoulder and they quickly strategized to get inside and find the other girl. It seemed like an eternity passed while everyone scanned the surface for the other girl. Andy was all the way in on the reef, walking in panicked circles. I was sure she had drowned. I felt sick and speechless.
Then suddenly someone called from the other side of the line-up.
"She's here!" he cried. "She's okay!"
She'd somehow been dragged way up the reef and was being helped back over by another surfer. A few minutes later we were all back in my dinghy. Andy tried to play it off like it was no big deal. Twiggy and Greg paddled back out. Neither sought appreciation for their efforts. Like superheros, they just turned back into their humble selves after the emergency had been diffused. I shuttled Andy and his half drowned harlots back to the point in a cloak of grave silence. We all get away with a few bad choices at that age - I certainly did. But I decided that from then on, Andy could find another water taxi.
A few mornings later, I had the pleasure of sharing a full two hours of dawn in solid, glassy, Teahupo'o with Greg and Twiggy and Josh with his water housing (and swim goggles). Aside from the spectacular sunrise, the unforgettably perfect waves, and the most radical rainbow I'd ever witnessed - I pushed myself a bit harder that session, knowing that in the event of a mishap, I was graced by the presence of a big-wave superhero rescue team. Thanks for the encouragement, guys, hope you cleaned up at the XXL awards! Blessed be the unsung heroes of this world.
Liz Clark sails solo around the world on her 40-foot sailboat, Swell, in search of people, places and waves. She sends us travel updates, stories and photos several times a week.
More travel logs
More photos of the trip
Tagged: None
Teahupo'o 'Fog'
By: shannond | May 3rd, 2009 at 5:39pm
Text and Photo by Liz Clark
Session after session I gained confidence at this beastly wave. In the afternoons the crowd would thin and the circus of photographers and spectators would run off to find food and shade. With just a few locals out - I began to sit deeper and understand which waves I wanted and which I DEFINITELY didn't. One afternoon when the swell was coming up, I didn't catch a single wave. After scurrying over the top of a few frightening sets, I respected my limits and paddled back to the dinghy. Just to paddle and feel the sea's energy was enough on that day.
A week passed in a blur of adrenaline. As much as I tried to do other things - I could focus on nothing else. I was behind on blogging, coming down to the wire on my visa/customs time in French Polynesia, it sure seemed like there was a lot of water in the bilge again, and I hadn't really made any sort of 'plan' about what the next few months held. But the wave and the challenge had hypnotized me - I was lost in a Teahupo'o fog.
One morning as I floated in the channel after an early session, a long time California transplant circled by me in his dinghy. "I sprung a leak," he declared. He was up to his ankles in water INSIDE the little rubber boat.
"I got patching stuff if you need it?" I replied. Later that day, he came by Swell. We hauled the outboard off his hole-y old Avon and lifted it up onto the dock to dry out. The engine was giving him trouble too. Symptoms: decelerates after giving it gas, then stalls. Hmmmm... Sounded familiar - probably the carburetor.
"Oh, I'll just take the engine to the shop," he said, "I don't know a thing about outboards."
"Let's just open up the lid and see how easy it is to access the carburetor at least," I retorted. It was RIGHT there. "I'm not guaranteeing I can fix it, but it's worth a try - we'll have to leave the boat here to dry, though, and patch it later."
"Can I get a ride out with you to surf this afternoon?" he asked.
"Yeah, sure..."
"Is it okay if a few of my girlfriends come with us and sit in the boat...?"
I felt a pang of selfishness, knowing I was going to be tangled into his afternoon courting gestures.
"Okay, that's fine..." I conceded, somehow sensing trouble.
That afternoon, we picked up his gorgeous harem at the point--three stunning, bikini-clad teens and headed out around the reef.
The swell was on its way down, but there the occasional solid set that kept me at full attention. I caught one of my best waves yet that afternoon, and forgot all about my foreboding feeling as we surfed into our second hour. Then suddenly the girls appeared in the channel where the wave dismisses the surfers into the flats. They hovered there for a while, and then Andy went over and gave one of them his board. She paddled back to the dinghy, while he swam with the other two up into the line-up.
I was too busy concentrating on picking the right waves and not getting smashed by a set to worry about the swimmers that were now past me, frolicking and giggling their way up along the line-up. The whole thing made me nervous. But Andy knew this wave better than anyone out there? He knew better than to bring the girls into the impact zone at Teahupo'o? Apparently he'd become a bit overwhelmed by the beauty of his sea nymphs and his better judgment had gone out with the ebbing tide. They had been treading water in the line-up for a solid ten minutes now. I waited in angst as we were due for a set.
To be continued...
Session after session I gained confidence at this beastly wave. In the afternoons the crowd would thin and the circus of photographers and spectators would run off to find food and shade. With just a few locals out - I began to sit deeper and understand which waves I wanted and which I DEFINITELY didn't. One afternoon when the swell was coming up, I didn't catch a single wave. After scurrying over the top of a few frightening sets, I respected my limits and paddled back to the dinghy. Just to paddle and feel the sea's energy was enough on that day.
A week passed in a blur of adrenaline. As much as I tried to do other things - I could focus on nothing else. I was behind on blogging, coming down to the wire on my visa/customs time in French Polynesia, it sure seemed like there was a lot of water in the bilge again, and I hadn't really made any sort of 'plan' about what the next few months held. But the wave and the challenge had hypnotized me - I was lost in a Teahupo'o fog.
One morning as I floated in the channel after an early session, a long time California transplant circled by me in his dinghy. "I sprung a leak," he declared. He was up to his ankles in water INSIDE the little rubber boat.
"I got patching stuff if you need it?" I replied. Later that day, he came by Swell. We hauled the outboard off his hole-y old Avon and lifted it up onto the dock to dry out. The engine was giving him trouble too. Symptoms: decelerates after giving it gas, then stalls. Hmmmm... Sounded familiar - probably the carburetor.
"Oh, I'll just take the engine to the shop," he said, "I don't know a thing about outboards."
"Let's just open up the lid and see how easy it is to access the carburetor at least," I retorted. It was RIGHT there. "I'm not guaranteeing I can fix it, but it's worth a try - we'll have to leave the boat here to dry, though, and patch it later."
"Can I get a ride out with you to surf this afternoon?" he asked.
"Yeah, sure..."
"Is it okay if a few of my girlfriends come with us and sit in the boat...?"
I felt a pang of selfishness, knowing I was going to be tangled into his afternoon courting gestures.
"Okay, that's fine..." I conceded, somehow sensing trouble.
That afternoon, we picked up his gorgeous harem at the point--three stunning, bikini-clad teens and headed out around the reef.
The swell was on its way down, but there the occasional solid set that kept me at full attention. I caught one of my best waves yet that afternoon, and forgot all about my foreboding feeling as we surfed into our second hour. Then suddenly the girls appeared in the channel where the wave dismisses the surfers into the flats. They hovered there for a while, and then Andy went over and gave one of them his board. She paddled back to the dinghy, while he swam with the other two up into the line-up.
I was too busy concentrating on picking the right waves and not getting smashed by a set to worry about the swimmers that were now past me, frolicking and giggling their way up along the line-up. The whole thing made me nervous. But Andy knew this wave better than anyone out there? He knew better than to bring the girls into the impact zone at Teahupo'o? Apparently he'd become a bit overwhelmed by the beauty of his sea nymphs and his better judgment had gone out with the ebbing tide. They had been treading water in the line-up for a solid ten minutes now. I waited in angst as we were due for a set.
To be continued...
Liz Clark sails solo around the world on her 40-foot sailboat, Swell, in search of people, places and waves. She sends us travel updates, stories and photos several times a week.
More travel logs
More photos of the trip
Tagged: None
All Octopuses Are Venomous
By: shannond | April 30th, 2009 at 10:44am
Text by University of Melbourne, Photo by NOAA
Once thought to be only the realm of the blue-ringed octopus, researchers have now shown that all octopuses and cuttlefish, and some squid are venomous. The work indicates that they all share a common, ancient venomous ancestor and highlights new avenues for drug discovery.
Conducted by scientists from the University of Melbourne, University of Brussels and Museum Victoria, the study was published in the Journal of Molecular Evolution.
Dr Bryan Fry from the Department of Biochemistry at the Bio21 Institute, University of Melbourne said that while the blue-ringed octopus species remain the only group that are dangerous to humans, the other species have been quietly using their venom for predation, such as paralyzing a clam into opening its shell.
"Venoms are toxic proteins with specialized functions such as paralyzing the nervous system" he said.
"We hope that by understanding the structure and mode of action of venom proteins we can benefit drug design for a range of conditions such as pain management, allergies and cancer."
While many creatures have been examined as a basis for drug development, cephalopods (octopuses, cuttlefish and squid) remain an untapped resource and their venom may represent a unique class of compounds.
Dr Fry obtained tissue samples from cephalopods ranging from Hong Kong, the Coral Sea, the Great Barrier Reef and Antarctica.
The team then analyzed the genes for venom production from the different species and found that a venomous ancestor produced one set of venom proteins, but over time additional proteins were added to the chemical arsenal.
The origin of these genes also sheds light on the fundamentals of evolution, presenting a prime example of convergent evolution where species independently develop similar traits.
The team will now work on understanding why very different types of venomous animals seem to consistently settle on the similar venom protein composition, and which physical or chemical properties make them predisposed to be useful as toxin.
"Not only will this allow us to understand how these animals have assembled their arsenals, but it will also allow us to better exploit them in the development of new drugs from venoms," said Dr Fry.
"It does not seem a coincidence that some of the same protein types have been recruited for use as toxins across the animal kingdom."
Once thought to be only the realm of the blue-ringed octopus, researchers have now shown that all octopuses and cuttlefish, and some squid are venomous. The work indicates that they all share a common, ancient venomous ancestor and highlights new avenues for drug discovery.
Conducted by scientists from the University of Melbourne, University of Brussels and Museum Victoria, the study was published in the Journal of Molecular Evolution.
Dr Bryan Fry from the Department of Biochemistry at the Bio21 Institute, University of Melbourne said that while the blue-ringed octopus species remain the only group that are dangerous to humans, the other species have been quietly using their venom for predation, such as paralyzing a clam into opening its shell.
"Venoms are toxic proteins with specialized functions such as paralyzing the nervous system" he said.
"We hope that by understanding the structure and mode of action of venom proteins we can benefit drug design for a range of conditions such as pain management, allergies and cancer."
While many creatures have been examined as a basis for drug development, cephalopods (octopuses, cuttlefish and squid) remain an untapped resource and their venom may represent a unique class of compounds.
Dr Fry obtained tissue samples from cephalopods ranging from Hong Kong, the Coral Sea, the Great Barrier Reef and Antarctica.
The team then analyzed the genes for venom production from the different species and found that a venomous ancestor produced one set of venom proteins, but over time additional proteins were added to the chemical arsenal.
The origin of these genes also sheds light on the fundamentals of evolution, presenting a prime example of convergent evolution where species independently develop similar traits.
The team will now work on understanding why very different types of venomous animals seem to consistently settle on the similar venom protein composition, and which physical or chemical properties make them predisposed to be useful as toxin.
"Not only will this allow us to understand how these animals have assembled their arsenals, but it will also allow us to better exploit them in the development of new drugs from venoms," said Dr Fry.
"It does not seem a coincidence that some of the same protein types have been recruited for use as toxins across the animal kingdom."
Tagged: None
Caribbean Tsunamis
By: shannond | April 26th, 2009 at 5:45pm
Text and Graphic by University of Portsmouth
View of a block being undercut by wave erosion, on the northern margin of the Morne aux
Diables volcano.
Up to 30,000 residents and tourists could be under threat from a newly discovered tsunami risk in the Caribbean, according to experts in disaster risk management.
The heavily populated coast of Guadeloupe will have little warning if a tsunami is triggered by the collapse of a volcano on the nearby island of Dominica.
A team of geologists, led by Dr Richard Teeuw from the University of Portsmouth, have discovered that a flank of the volcano Morne aux Diables ("Devils' Peak") shows signs of collapse and if so, a million-ton chunk of rock could crash into the sea, producing tsunami waves up to almost 3 metres (10 feet) high.
Such a rock fall could also weaken three million tones of rock upslope, potentially resulting in much larger landslides and waves of up to five metres.
Dr Teeuw said: "It's not a case of if this landslide and tsunami will happen, but when. The trigger will probably be a major earthquake, occurring after the heavy rain and coastal erosion of the hurricane season. It could happen in a hundred years or it could happen next week.
"Guadeloupe is a densely populated island with popular tourist beaches, many of which are wide with low angle gradients, which leads to 'tsunami run-up' and increased wave heights. In places, there is no protection from coral reef which otherwise might absorb some of the tsunami wave energy.
"There would be damage to property and if people were on the beach then there could be loss of life. This part of the world is well-prepared for hurricane hazards, but is relatively unprepared for the rapid impact of a tsunami."
The vulnerable area of rock was left exposed several thousand years ago when the flank of the volcano collapsed into the sea. Dr Teeuw will study the seabed for evidence of an ancient tsunami next year. Since the original collapse, coastal erosion has undercut cliffs along the over-steepened margin of the volcano, leaving the remaining flank of the volcano unstable.
Dr Teeuw and colleagues made their discovery after carrying out geomorphological surveys backed up by 3-D images from Google Earth which show clearly visible tension cracks. The results convinced them that they were looking at a serious landslide and tsunami hazard.
The Guadeloupe archipelago is about 50 kilometres north of Dominica and tsunami waves would hit its shores within minutes of the volcano's collapse, giving little chance to warn people on the coast.
The island of Dominica has the highest concentrations of potentially active volcanoes in the world. The area is regularly exposed to hurricanes and occasional severe seismic activity.
Dr Teeuw and his team of students and geoscientists will return to Dominica this summer, part-funded by the Royal Geographical Society, for further geomorphological surveys, to better understand the probable size of the various landslide zones on the flanks of Morne aux Diable.
A further survey is planned for 2010, when the seafloor along the margin of the volcano will be examined, allowing better estimates of the likely tsunami hazard. Examining the age of the sediment on the seabed will also help to determine when past coastal landslides occurred.
Dr Teeuw said: "The earthquake associated with the ancient flank-collapse of Morne aux Diables volcano was probably much larger than any experienced around Dominica in historical times. If so, that has serious implications, raising the possibility of rare, but catastrophic, tsunami waves in the Caribbean region."
View of a block being undercut by wave erosion, on the northern margin of the Morne aux
Diables volcano.
Up to 30,000 residents and tourists could be under threat from a newly discovered tsunami risk in the Caribbean, according to experts in disaster risk management.
The heavily populated coast of Guadeloupe will have little warning if a tsunami is triggered by the collapse of a volcano on the nearby island of Dominica.
A team of geologists, led by Dr Richard Teeuw from the University of Portsmouth, have discovered that a flank of the volcano Morne aux Diables ("Devils' Peak") shows signs of collapse and if so, a million-ton chunk of rock could crash into the sea, producing tsunami waves up to almost 3 metres (10 feet) high.
Such a rock fall could also weaken three million tones of rock upslope, potentially resulting in much larger landslides and waves of up to five metres.
Dr Teeuw said: "It's not a case of if this landslide and tsunami will happen, but when. The trigger will probably be a major earthquake, occurring after the heavy rain and coastal erosion of the hurricane season. It could happen in a hundred years or it could happen next week.
"Guadeloupe is a densely populated island with popular tourist beaches, many of which are wide with low angle gradients, which leads to 'tsunami run-up' and increased wave heights. In places, there is no protection from coral reef which otherwise might absorb some of the tsunami wave energy.
"There would be damage to property and if people were on the beach then there could be loss of life. This part of the world is well-prepared for hurricane hazards, but is relatively unprepared for the rapid impact of a tsunami."
The vulnerable area of rock was left exposed several thousand years ago when the flank of the volcano collapsed into the sea. Dr Teeuw will study the seabed for evidence of an ancient tsunami next year. Since the original collapse, coastal erosion has undercut cliffs along the over-steepened margin of the volcano, leaving the remaining flank of the volcano unstable.
Dr Teeuw and colleagues made their discovery after carrying out geomorphological surveys backed up by 3-D images from Google Earth which show clearly visible tension cracks. The results convinced them that they were looking at a serious landslide and tsunami hazard.
The Guadeloupe archipelago is about 50 kilometres north of Dominica and tsunami waves would hit its shores within minutes of the volcano's collapse, giving little chance to warn people on the coast.
The island of Dominica has the highest concentrations of potentially active volcanoes in the world. The area is regularly exposed to hurricanes and occasional severe seismic activity.
Dr Teeuw and his team of students and geoscientists will return to Dominica this summer, part-funded by the Royal Geographical Society, for further geomorphological surveys, to better understand the probable size of the various landslide zones on the flanks of Morne aux Diable.
A further survey is planned for 2010, when the seafloor along the margin of the volcano will be examined, allowing better estimates of the likely tsunami hazard. Examining the age of the sediment on the seabed will also help to determine when past coastal landslides occurred.
Dr Teeuw said: "The earthquake associated with the ancient flank-collapse of Morne aux Diables volcano was probably much larger than any experienced around Dominica in historical times. If so, that has serious implications, raising the possibility of rare, but catastrophic, tsunami waves in the Caribbean region."
Tagged: None
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